Technology
755, 808 and 1064 nm: which wavelength for which skin type
In short
Which wavelength is needed for which skin type?
755 nm is more often chosen for fine, fair hair and light skin types, 808 nm for the broad part of the client flow, and 1064 nm for dark skin types. The logic is the same. The shorter the wavelength, the more strongly melanin absorbs it and the less it penetrates. The longer the wavelength, the weaker the absorption and the deeper the penetration. 755 nm is strongly absorbed by melanin, so it suits fine, fair but pigmented hair, and it calls for care on olive skin. 808 nm gives average values for both parameters, so it is the most universal working range. 1064 nm is weakly absorbed by skin melanin and penetrates deeper, so it is used on dark skin types and for deep follicles. Melanin is present in both the hair and the skin. The task is to heat the hair without overheating the skin. Wavelength and cooling solve it together. Grey, white and red hair responds poorly to any wavelength. The specialist chooses the parameters for the individual client.
How is wavelength related to absorption and depth?
Melanin absorption falls as wavelength increases. Penetration depth, meanwhile, increases. In the working window for hair removal, roughly 600 to 1100 nm, these two properties move in opposite directions. For how this looks in the two most common technologies, see the article ‘Diode or alexandrite laser’.
| Wavelength | Melanin absorption | Depth | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 755 nm | High | Less | Fine and fair but pigmented hair; light skin types |
| 808 nm | Average | Medium | Main working range, broad part of the client flow |
| 1064 nm | Low | More | Dark skin types, deep follicle |
Melanin is present in both the hair and the skin. The task is to heat the hair without overheating the skin.
Why is 1064 nm used for skin type VI?
Dark skin contains a lot of melanin in the skin itself. Short-wavelength radiation will be absorbed by the skin on a par with the hair.
At 1064 nm, melanin absorption is lower. The difference between heating the hair and heating the skin becomes manageable.
Why is 755 nm used for fine hair?
Fine, fair hair contains little melanin. A wavelength that is absorbed more strongly is needed; otherwise there will not be enough energy in the hair. For the strengths and weaknesses of 755 nm, see the article about the alexandrite laser.
This rule has a limit. Grey, white and red hair contains almost no dark pigment. Such hair responds poorly to any light-based hair removal.
Paradoxical hair growth after treatments has also been described on the face and neck. According to a 2010 review, it occurs in 0.6–10% of cases, more often in skin types III–VI. One possible cause is insufficient energy. That is why the specialist chooses the parameters.
How does cooling widen the window of parameters?
Cooling removes part of the heat from the skin surface. This widens the window of parameters within which work can be done safely.
Without stable cooling, energy has to be reduced, and the advantage of the wavelength is lost. For how the cooling systems are built, see the article on handpiece cooling.
Where IPLASER fits in
The iPRO MINI hair removal handpiece is not a diode laser or an alexandrite laser, but IPLASER technology. It is IPL with narrow-band filtering and three pulses per flash. This is how Innovatione devices have worked since 2013. For how the technology works and how it differs from lasers, see the IPLASER page.
So the table above describes lasers. IPLASER does not have one wavelength but a band of light after the filter. The specialist chooses the parameters for the skin type according to the protocol.
Who this article is not for
- If you are choosing a treatment for yourself. The specialist determines the parameters at an in-person consultation.
- If you need a protocol for a specific case. That is the work of a doctor, not of an article.
- If you are interested in other tasks. For vessels and pigment, the logic of choosing the wavelength is different.
- If the client flow includes a lot of grey and very fair hair. Light-based hair removal works poorly on it at any wavelength.
Questions and answers
Which wavelength is used for dark skin?
1064 nm. Melanin absorption at this wavelength is lower and penetration is deeper, which makes the difference between heating the hair and heating the skin manageable.
Which wavelength is used for fine, fair hair?
755 nm. Melanin absorption is higher, which matters when there is little melanin in the hair itself. Grey, white and red hair responds poorly to any wavelength.
Why is 808 nm called universal?
It has average values for both absorption and depth, so it covers the broad part of the client flow.
How are absorption and depth related?
They are inversely related. In the working window for hair removal, roughly 600 to 1100 nm, the shorter the wavelength, the stronger the melanin absorption and the smaller the penetration depth.
Why is a range needed rather than a single wavelength?
One wavelength suits one part of the client flow better than another. Several wavelengths in one laser platform make it possible to choose the one that suits the skin type and hair type.
What does cooling do?
It removes part of the heat from the skin surface, which widens the window of parameters that can be used.
Does hair growth ever happen after hair removal?
Rarely. Paradoxical hair growth has been described after all types of laser and light-based hair removal. According to a 2010 review, it occurs in 0.6–10% of cases, more often on the face and neck and in skin types III–VI.
This material describes the physical properties of radiation and is not medical advice. The specialist chooses the treatment parameters. Checked 14 October 2026.
